The Gannets of
Bonaventure Island
by
Bobby Harrison
The great
Appalachia range that rises from the plains of Georgia and extends some fifteen
hundred miles north, find its end at the tip Canada’s Gaspe’ Peninsula. There, on the tip of the Gaspe’, the mountaintops wane, and
submerge below the deep blue waters of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. In what seems to be a last hurrah, the once
and mighty range rises once more above the watery surface two miles off the
shores of Perce’, Quebec. The emergent mountain is Bonaventure Island, the
sight of what many ornithologist claim to be the most impressive wildlife
spectacles on the planet.
Bonaventure Island, home to the largest Northern Gannet colony in North America. (click on image to enlarge) |
By April northern
gannets begin to arrive on the island to establish their nest, a few at first, but
soon they begin to arrive by the thousands.
Gannets, seabirds with a six-and-a-half foot wing span, spend eight
months of the year on the open sea.
Driven by instinct, the birds seek dry land to nest, and Bonaventure
provides the perfect habitat. The east
side of the island rises vertically 250 feet above the water with cliffs
riddled with nooks, crannies and ledges that serve as ideal nesting
platforms. By the end of April more than
sixty-five thousand pairs of gannets descend upon the island to raise their
young, a sight that is hard to comprehend until seen. For this reason, I arrive on Bonaventure to
experience the gannetry and capture the show with my camera.
Seaward side of Bonaventure Island showing Gannets nesting on the clift walls. (click on image to enlarge) |
The boat trip to
the island is short and weather conditions for shooting could not be better. A
light cloud cover softens the light making photography conditions just
perfect. As I reach the seaward side of
the island, birds seem to swirl in a hurricane of flurry as uncountable numbers
wing-in from the sea looking for their nest among the many
Northen Gannet soaring over the cliffs of Bonaventure Island. (click on image to enlarge) |
thousands that festoon the cliffs. Soaring over the ocean, many
gannets flying just above the watery surface soar skyward sixty feet or more
then turn and dive into the sea. Just
before impact, their wings stretch back along their bodies and like arrows the
birds strike the water and disappear below the surface. Like corks, the gannets pop back to the
surface and take flight toward Bonaventure.
As I arrive on the
leeward side of the island, I began the two-mile trudge toward the gannetry. After an hour into the trek, the uphill climb
and forty-five pounds of camera gear began to wear on me, but more than half way across the island I find a
patch of bunchberries nestled against the trunk of a spruce. The subtle beauty of the flowers called to be
photographed, but more than that, they provided a good excuse to take a breather
from the climb.
Cornus canadensis (Bunchberry) -- Bonaventure Island, Quebec (click on image to enlarge) |
As
soon as I saw the patch of flowers I thought of Eliot Porter, the master of large
format, color nature photography. Porter, in my opinion was the best bird
photographer that has ever lived, and he himself had made a similar trek as I
was making to the Bonaventure gannetry. In fact, if you are a nature
photographer, you have probably followed in the Porter’s footsteps. He pioneered the use
of color nature photography, and is best known for his exquisitely detailed
bird, and nature close-ups.
His book, In Wilderness is the Preservation of the World, was the first oversized coffee table book. Porter’s work inspired a new genre of photography, and future generations of nature photographers. The Bunchberries beckoned to be photographed, and though I was in a hurry to get to the gannetry I could not pass this exquisite Lilliputian landscape, and pay homage to this giant of photography.
His book, In Wilderness is the Preservation of the World, was the first oversized coffee table book. Porter’s work inspired a new genre of photography, and future generations of nature photographers. The Bunchberries beckoned to be photographed, and though I was in a hurry to get to the gannetry I could not pass this exquisite Lilliputian landscape, and pay homage to this giant of photography.
A small stretch of the gantry on Bonaventure Island (click on image to enlarge) |
Soon,
I am back on the trail and it is not long until I receive my first indication
I am close to the rookery. With each
step I take, the screams and cries produced by the immense number of gannets
is deafening. As I walk into the
colony the scenery is astonishing. As far as the eye can see gannets line the
top of the cliffs. But, what I see is
only part of the colony, the birds line the cliffs for almost a mile.
Northern Gannet, Morus bassanus: Bonaventure Island; Perce', Quebec (click on image to enlarge) |
The gannetry is
a menagerie of activity; thousands of gannets sit on nests placed only a beak's
reach apart. The air is full of birds zipping over the polka-dotted landscape,
each carrying masses of seaweed for its nest, or food for its nestling. Impeccable flyers, gannets are quit clumsy
landing and walking on solid ground.
Once a gannet finds its nest, it falls from the sky and tumbles onto
ground where it’s mate awaits.
Northern Gannet arriving with nesting material. (click on image to enlarge) |
Leaving
the nest is bit more difficult. Gannets
must find their way to the edge of the cliff and launch themselves into the
air. Birds further from the edge of the
cliff run a gauntlet of pecking and prodding from its neighbors before becoming airborne.
There seems to be no peace for any birds in the colony as quarrels and
persistent pecking by, and at itsneighbors is the norm.
There is however another side to the birds, a tender side. Once a gannet finds its nest and the neighboring bullying subsides,
Pair bonding ritual of mated pair of Northern Gannet. (click on image to enlarge) |
the mated pair performs a
choreographed dance. With beaks pointing
skyward, the pair rubs their bills together in a jest of recognition and pair
bonding. The affectionate affair takes
less than a minute. It is a calm and intimate ritual.
One of the
hardest things about shooting in the gannetry is showing the immensity of it size, as well as the individuality of a bird.
It takes time to find my place among the countless number of
gannets. As I find that place, I also
find individuals that exhibit behavior that satisfies my curiosity, and I
discover that the gannetry of Bonaventure Island truly is one of the most
impressive wildlife spectacles on the planet.
For more information on Elliott Porter:
http://www.photographydealers.com/artists/eliot-porter
Tourist Information and boat tickets to Bonaventure Island
Tourist Office of Perce' - Tourist Information Center
Tourist Information and boat tickets to Bonaventure Island
Tourist Office of Perce' - Tourist Information Center
142 Route 132 West
Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada
+1 418-782-5448
Closes at 9:00 PM
http://perce.info
Hotels:
Hotel Motel Fleu De Lys Riotel Perce
248 QC-132 261 QC-132
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+ 418-782-5380 + 418-463-4212
http://fleurdelysperce.com http://riotel.com
Hotel la Normandie =Hotel Motel Manoir de
221 Rte. 132 Quest, C.P. 129 132 Route de l'E'glise
Perce', QC G0C 1V0 Perce', QC G0C 1A0
Canada Canada
+ 418-782-2112 + 418-782-2022
http://normandieperce.com http://manoiredperce.com
The Mirage Hotel Hotel-Motel Rocher Perce
288 Route 132 Quest 111 route 132 Quest
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-5151 +1 418-782-2330
http://hotellemirageperce.com http://hotelperce.com
Auberge Les Trois Soeurs Au Pic del l'Aurore
77 QC-132 C.P. 339
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0c 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-2183 (866) 882-2151
http://aubergelestroissoeurs.com http://percechalet.com
Campgrounds:
Camping du Village Camping Bale-De-Perce
16 Rue Donohue 180 Route 132 Quest
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
+1 418-782-2020 + 418-782-5102
http://campingduvillage.com http://campingbaiedeprece.com
Camping au Havre de la Nuit Inc. Camping Cote Surprise
16 Rue Biard 335 route 132 Quest
Perce' QC G0C 2L0 Perce' QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
http://campingauquebec.com http://campingperce.com
Eateries:
Restaurant Biard Enr Le Recif
99 132 Rte W. 119 132 Rte W.
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-2873 +1 418-782-5622
Boite A Lunch Les Etes Restaurant La Table a' Roland
774 132 Rte W. 190 Route 132 Quest
Perce' QC G0C 2L0 Perce' QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-2937 +1 418-782-2606
http://aubergelatablearoland.com
Restaurant Resto du Village Restaurant Le Surcouf Cafe'
162-A route 132 Quest 168 route 132 Auest
Perce' QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-5009 +1 418+782-5656
Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada
+1 418-782-5448
Closes at 9:00 PM
http://perce.info
Hotels:
Hotel Motel Fleu De Lys Riotel Perce
248 QC-132 261 QC-132
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+ 418-782-5380 + 418-463-4212
http://fleurdelysperce.com http://riotel.com
Hotel la Normandie =Hotel Motel Manoir de
221 Rte. 132 Quest, C.P. 129 132 Route de l'E'glise
Perce', QC G0C 1V0 Perce', QC G0C 1A0
Canada Canada
+ 418-782-2112 + 418-782-2022
http://normandieperce.com http://manoiredperce.com
The Mirage Hotel Hotel-Motel Rocher Perce
288 Route 132 Quest 111 route 132 Quest
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-5151 +1 418-782-2330
http://hotellemirageperce.com http://hotelperce.com
Auberge Les Trois Soeurs Au Pic del l'Aurore
77 QC-132 C.P. 339
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0c 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-2183 (866) 882-2151
http://aubergelestroissoeurs.com http://percechalet.com
Campgrounds:
Camping du Village Camping Bale-De-Perce
16 Rue Donohue 180 Route 132 Quest
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
+1 418-782-2020 + 418-782-5102
http://campingduvillage.com http://campingbaiedeprece.com
Camping au Havre de la Nuit Inc. Camping Cote Surprise
16 Rue Biard 335 route 132 Quest
Perce' QC G0C 2L0 Perce' QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
http://campingauquebec.com http://campingperce.com
Eateries:
Restaurant Biard Enr Le Recif
99 132 Rte W. 119 132 Rte W.
Perce', QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-2873 +1 418-782-5622
Boite A Lunch Les Etes Restaurant La Table a' Roland
774 132 Rte W. 190 Route 132 Quest
Perce' QC G0C 2L0 Perce' QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-2937 +1 418-782-2606
http://aubergelatablearoland.com
Restaurant Resto du Village Restaurant Le Surcouf Cafe'
162-A route 132 Quest 168 route 132 Auest
Perce' QC G0C 2L0 Perce', QC G0C 2L0
Canada Canada
+1 418-782-5009 +1 418+782-5656
Great article Bobby, I can almost hear and smell the colony of Gannets. Sublime photography as always. I eagerly await the next installment. Regards John Hodges
ReplyDeleteWonderful place.. greats shots..
ReplyDeleteWell worth the walk with the 45 pounds of gear, Bobby!
ReplyDelete